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26 September 2010

Italy 2010 - A Trip in Review

We’re back home!

So how was my trip?  Completely normal question to ask someone when they come back from vacation, and the standard responses go along the lines of:

  • It was great!
  • We had a wonderful time!
  • Loved it!

Fine, but then what I consider to be a challenging follow-up question to answer when bumping into someone in the elevator: What did you do? Seriously how does one answer that question! I usually just say: Everything.  What are they expecting me to say? Snorkelling? Mountain climbing? Deep-sea fishing? Underwater basket weaving?

So- for you- I answer the question in detail. I won’t include too many pictures here, you’ll have to go to Picasa for those!

Milan

This was our 3rd time in Milan, so we had no great plans other then wandering around the Centre of the city, eating at the Galleria of course, and watching the world go by. 

I hate to say it but there is a noticeably larger amount of people who STINK in Milan.  I don’t quite get why…  it’s not hotter then other places in Italy but it would seem that many Milanese men don’t think washing matters.  We not only noticed it this time, but the last time we were in Milan too.  Go figure!

My husband was very impressed with the Duomo interior, more so then previous visits and I got 3 meals at the Galleria yeah!

I also on a few occasion snatched the camera away from my husband in order to capture some more unusual pictures then the ones he would normally go for (i.e.: tighter close ups of the architecture instead of perfectly framed long shots). 

What do you think?

Duomo:

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Galleria:

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Monza – Grand Prix

INFINITELY better then previous time. Nice weather and better seats make ALL the difference!

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Lake Como – Varenna & Bellagio

CRAWLING with Americans.  SWAMPED! Not that I have anything against American Tourists, honestly! But it’s a cliché for a reason. Baseball caps, socks pulled up, tennis shoes, and LOUD! The women blend in better then the men, the men might as well carry flags.

The part I don’t like is that it kind of bursts the “being far from home” bubble I like to be in. When surrounded by a mix of international tourists, I really feel like I am on vacation but hearing the American accent pulls me back into real life and I go on vacation precisely to escape real life!

Bellagio is said to be “The Pearl” of Lake Como… I don’t get it. All it is is shopping!!!! Yes, beautiful views, GORGEOUS views, BREATHTAKING views and being on the lake is WONDERFUL!!!  but after lunch and a stroll, if you don’t want to go shopping, you are done for the day! I think Como is the Pearl of Lake Como, so much more to see and do in Como compared to Bellagio… but we had a WONDERFUL lunch by the lake in Bellagio and it’s definitely one of the highlights of the trip.

 Having Lunch - Simone

Who would not enjoy lunch with a view like this!!! I took this picture from where I was sitting, you can see the same flowers in both shots.

Having Lunch - Views

Genoa

SO HOT! but nice because it was big and there was a lot to see.  It did remind me a bit of Marseille (which I hated) to quote by guidebook: It’s more reminiscent of a Moroccan medina then a romantic Venetian cityscape, but I liked it better then Marseille by far! Lots to see and do and the maze of caruggi (narrow lanes and twisting streets) were fun to explore and a God send for escaping the heat.

We missed the fact that there were not many touristy places to eat. I know that this contradicts previous statements I have made about food and restaurants, but we would have enjoyed a nice terrace in the town centre to sit and have drinks and a light meal where it does not have to be good, but it just LOOKS good and you FEEL good being there.

Great city to explore

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Santa Margherita

Not much to say other then it’s gorgeous. We took a nice stroll along the lakefront.

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Portofino

Ah Portofino! How your undeserved reputation precedes you.

Why undeserved? Because it’s blown WAY out of proportion.

What impressions do you conjure up in your mind when you think of Portofino? Jet Set? Luxury? Glamour? Refinement? I think that’s all too much.

It was quaint, beautiful, PACKED with tourists and mostly shopping. Like Bellagio, I think that the places have been ruined by their reputation and no longer deserve the caché created by that reputation because “it” no longer exists; because they are such sought after destinations, the merchants follow and then the whole place takes on almost a “kitschy” feel.

That having been said, it IS FANTASTICALLY beautiful. Not all that much to do if you don’t want to shop.  Hike up to the Church & Castle & Lighthouse for great sweeping views of the harbour…  stroll…

We had the loungiest and most expensive lunch of our trip in Portofino (I think I may have been scammed – but that’s a story for another day)

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Rapallo

We’ve been to Rapallo before on the tour in 2003 and I thought it was just ok (and by that I mean: gorgeous but once is enough) however my husband remembered it as out of this world so we went back.

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Sestri Levante

Staying in Sestri was a recommendation from my travel agent instead of staying in Cinque Terre.  Great idea! It was a lovely town. Not much to do if you don’t like the beach, but for a home base it’s wonderful. We were very happy.

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Cinque Terre

Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, Riomaggiore

Don’t get me wrong it’s GORGEOUS! but I think heading in the same direction as Bellagio and Portofino.

We saw all 5 towns over 3 days, sandwiched between other activities.  It was overcast and even the occasional drops of rain but we were THRILLED because it was hot and we needed a respite from the heat.  I think if we would have had blue skies and sunshine we would not have done half as much, including the hike from Riomaggiore to Manarola (known as Via dell’Amore) and onwards to Corniglia.

Again, I am not into shopping so it cuts down a little on the “Things to Do” but we enjoyed strolling, people watching, eating, taking loads of pictures and like Bellagio, navigating streets full of American Tourists (I suspect Rick Steves has something to do with this, I saw his guides A LOT when in C.T.)

Falling in Manarola and busting up my knee wasn’t so fun! But then again it’s turned into a vacation tradition at this point!

What can beat this view?

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Pisa

Ah! what fun!!!  We’ve been to Pisa before, again on that trip in 2003 but that was just a short zip through the city, glimpse at the sights and drive on.  This time, we climbed the tower!! FUN FUN FUN. I don’t want to say too much because I want to save the stories for a separate entry but suffice it to say I highly recommend the experience! Again, overcast skies with a few welcomed drops of rain to cut the heat so we were very happy!

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Siena

Brown. 

Interestingly in Siena, there is no more plaster on the buildings and all the brick is exposed – the entire town is brick coloured! Neat at first but BLAH after 3 days!!  Beautiful city to visit, GREAT main square “Campo”, lots to explore… and the FOOD! OHHHHHHHHH baby the food! tremendous! (but not in the Campo).

Had an OUT OF THIS WORLD lunch here:

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We were going to climb the tower, but I chickened out. Too many warnings!!!  Do not climb if you have diabetes, vertigo, claustrophobia, GIDDINESS (I think it’s a bad translation… but of what?) My husband instead of being understanding was a total jerk about it. He is still making fun of me.  This drama will linger.

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San Gimignano

We hesitated between going on our own vs. on a guided tour.  We decided on a tour and the company we selected would pick us up at the hotel, take us on a tour of San Gimignano and then to a vineyard for wine tasting.

As it happens we were the only ones who signed up so it turned into a private tour! How lucky!

So happy we did it that way because San Gimignano is up there with Bellagio, Portofino and Cinque Terre. Beautiful, packed with tourist, not much to do if you don’t like to shop…  enough said.  On this tour, we had about an hour and a half of free time in San Gimignano – PLENTY!

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Bologna

Terrific! I would definitely recommend Bologna to someone looking for a stop for a few days. I liked the energy in the air in Bologna, perhaps because it was a university town it made it feel more vibrant? Can’t pin-point it.  My husband LOVED it. LOOOOOOOVED it! His head was on a swivel taking pictures of everything! It’s not as big as some other cities we visited, but it had a lot to offer.

We especially liked that virtually all the streets were lined with Porticoes and Colonnaded walkways to shelter us from the sun. Fantastic! Sightseeing with no stickiness! Perfect!

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And did you know that Bologna has a leaning tower too? Two as a matter of fact! This one leans more then 3 meters!

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Rimini & San Marino

To get to San Marino, you have to take a bus from Rimini.  That part of the excursion I will save for another day, but because we were in Rimini we stopped for a drink. Nice. Meh, whatever.  Now I can say “been there done that”.

San Marino is the real draw.

San Marino ranks in my opinion along with Bellagio, Portofino, Cinque Terre and San Gimignano but (as with all those places) is still worth seeing. If for no other reason then the views from above.

Who cares if the food was so-so, look at the VIEWS!

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And so there you have it! Our trip to Italy!  Now I have to go work on the photo album.

 

Stay tuned!

23 September 2010

Italy 2010 - Day 13

Today we went to San Marino, beautiful!!  Amazing views from up there!!  The food was not that great mind you, it was "just touristy".

Well that's almost it, back in Bologna now, and my husband is taking a nap before we head out for diner. It's slowly time to start ajusting my thinking and accepting that yet another vacation is winding down...  I miss my babies so it will be good to be home (and not work until Tuesday)

Tomorrow it's back to Milan for our final night (and one last meal at the Galleria) then home on Saturday.

We both agreed that this has been on of our best vacations yet. Destinations, food, weather (minus the crazy hotness at the start) pictures, did I mention food?

Might be the last Field Report so I'll most probably "see" you back in Montreal.

Ciao!

22 September 2010

Italy 2010 - Day 12

OMG!!!!!  Bologna rocks!!

I wonder if my perception of a city is influenced by my accomodations??? I've always said no - but now I am starting to wonder.

Our hotel in Bologna is top notch. LOVE IT! I think I may quit my job and move in.  I can't BELIEVE the quality for the price ESPECIALLY when I compare with Milan... It's like we are on another planet.

It's fantastic.

The city is great too!  We had a great lunch where I finaly tried the pasta with wild boar that I had been eyeing on various menus for days now.

Health-wise, we are both 100% back to normal.

Tomorrow it's off to Rimini and San Marino.

Ciao!

21 September 2010

Italy 2010 - Day 11

Just finished a delicious lunch at 'Osteria Le Loggia' here in Siena.  Amazing how cheap wine is here.  We had a bottle for 30€ which would EASILY have been over 100$ at home in Montreal.  I never reaslised how much shipping inflates the prices!

We are taking it easy today, just lounging around the city since we are both recovering from colds.  We are okay now, back to normal,  and are slightly regretting our decision to stay in town and not visit Orvietto...  Ah well, now we have a reason to come back!

So after 2 nights in our hotel, we like and hate it.  At night, the windows serve no purpose and you'd think the street-party in our room!  All the noise in the street echos in the narrow alley and resounds into our room...  Thank God for earplugs (thanks to the Grand Prix in Monza)!!  I have never needed them as much as in this place!  It's the only complaint, other then that it's very nice however if I ever recommended this place to anyone, I would stress earplugs and sleeping pills if your room faces the street!!

Now, back to Il Campo for more coffee and lounging - killing time and building our appetite for super.  Tomorrow, off to Bologna.

Ciao!

19 September 2010

Italy 2010 - Day 8 & 9

AHHH  the first day where we did not sweat before noon! The weather has finaly cooled down, either that or we have just become immune. 

All the heat and sweating finally has taken a toll on us, my husband is sick. He is not sure if it is a virus or a bad "vongole" but he's had a rough 24 hours.  I only have a soar throat so far, let's hope it stays at that.

So now, he is sleeping back at the hotel and I am wandering the streets of Siena.  Beautiful city!!  Full of tourists but of the International Kind..  A little bit of everything from everywhere, unlike Bellagio which was FULL from top to bottom with American Tourists. 

Hearing American voices kind of ruins the feeling of being away, far from home, on vacation...  my husband would chat with anything that moves on the other hand, so sometimes I get trapped! I think if I had 1€ for everytime I heard an American voice say: "So, where are you from?" I'd be so rich I'd never have to come back from vacation.

Since I have a bit more time to linger on line, I thought I'd catch you up on my progress for "being good" food wise...  I consider myself highly sucessful! Based on the plan I had for myself in my entry regarding eating on vacation I consider this vacation to be a huge succes!  I have been having very reasonable 1 portion meatless cheeseless breakfasts, I only has desert once so far and it was ice cream and strawberries so I conscider that reasonable. Dinners have been small, never 3 courses. Have not snacked between meals ONCE! I even ordered fish on various occasions to keep things light. Yeah me!!! 

Lunches remain huge overall mind you, but I am on vacation after all!!!

Regarding my top 2 meal goals I surpassed my plan by doing each 3 times!!  OINK OINK...  but I love it.

My knee (following my tumble in Manarola) is now somewhere between purple and yellow with bits of red and black... it's pretty gross and I didn't manage to get the blood stains completly out of my jeans...  Ah well, I'll consider it a souvenir from Cinque Terre.

Or hotel here in Siena seems very nice so far..  VERY VERY rustic but with a very modern bathroom. Good mix! Haven't slept there yet, but we are encouraged so far. Nothing on this trip has the hopes of surpassing our hotel in Sestri Levante.  What a great place! It was a recommendation from my travel agent and I am glad I took it.

Not only was the hotel fantastic, but the customer service was excellent too. My husband forgot his glasses in Genoa, and when we check into the hotel in S.L., we explained the situation to the receptionist and she just took over. Called the hotel in Genoa, waded through the mind field of lazy jerks at said hotel in Genoa who did not want to mail them... and finaly did so on Friday! Some help!  We still don't have them. Sending them to Canada seems like it would be a big deal, so when they arrive in S.L., she will send them on to the last hotel in Milan.  I wonder how this saga will end?  Will he get them back in one piece?

We've been staying up late like grown-ups on this vacation unlike our usual pattern of going to bed at 8!! Now at that time, we are just settling into diner!  The most obvious explanation is that most restaurants only open around 7- 7:30, but I think we just got in the habit.  I am not sure how things will go today...  because my husband is sick, it's a possibily I might not be able to wake him us at our agreed time of  7PM (a little over an hour from now).

I am tired too, I have to confess.

Tomorrow, we are off on a tour of San Giminiano which includes a wine tasting, and a sampling of Tuscan meats and cheeses.  We really want to be in shape for the excursion. Normally we would train and bus it there on our own, but with this company (a brochure I picked up in the hotel lobby) they pick you up and drop you off at your hotel, and since we are both a little under the weather it seemed the best way to go.

So, that's it for now.  Now that I have rested by feet a bit, I will go wander around town some more before going to check in on my Husband.

Ciao!

17 September 2010

Italy 2010 - Day 6 & 7

Our hotels keep getting better and better...  Our place in Sestri Levante is so fantactic, I don't want to move on!!  The heat however is still yucky - yesterday was 3 shower day! And also, for the first time ever on vacation I had to wash my clothes.

If you have read by blog entry on Eze, you will be entertained to know that yesterday in Manarola I fell AGAIN and busted up the SAME knee!  UGH this time is was worse then Eze and it was a bloody mess and believe it or not, ME of all people who packs for every contingency had no bandaids on me!!  Just tissue paper and hand santizer, a nice Australian Tourist gave me some bandaids, but by then my jeans were bloody, ugh. So stupid!

Today, we went to Pisa and climbed the tower.  It was a memorable experience because I was not expecting  to be able to actually FEEL the lean, you really feel unsteady on your feet at the top.. and nothing to hold onto but the walls! HA HA  My husband thought it was amuzing how I shuffle-stepped along the wall to keep my balance.

Now we are in Vernazza and an unexpected rain shower broke out so we are taking refuge in the Internet Café...  tomorrow, more of Cinque Terre we still have 2 more of the 5 lands to explore.

Ciao

15 September 2010

Italy 2010 - Day 5

The heat is starting to affect our enjoyment. Today, to escape the heat in Genoa, we headed to the water: Santa Marguerita, then Portofino for lunch and now we are in Rapallo.

Lunch in Portofino was great (I had swordfish) because we were in a beautiful place IN THE SHADE overlooking the port, but now we are so hot we are just getting bitchy and cranky.  Instead of enjoying the sites, we are just looking for shade.  Thankfully, we have been to Rapallo before, so we won't feel like we are missing out!

The forecast for the next few days is a little cloudier and cooler, even a bit of rain...  we hope so!!!

Off to Sestri Levante & Cinque Terre tomorrow!

Ciao!

14 September 2010

Italy 2010 - Day 4

There is no comparing our hotel in Genoa to the place in Milan....  this is LEAPS and BOUNDS better!!! 

Genoa is hot, but so far, fewer stinky people then in Milan. I blocked that memory out from the last time we were there!

Having fun, eating too much... Genoa is gorgeous but too hot for us!!  We are hiding in the small streets and keeping cool.

Ciao!

13 September 2010

Italy 2010 - Day 1,2, 3

Hello from Italia!

We are currently in Bellagio seaking shelter from the sun.

The flight was great, can't get over the meal on the plane!! Fois gras, Beef bourgignon, even port with desert!!

Our hotel in Milan sucks. I really don't like it, not because of the quality itself, but just the value for the price paid. I suppose the fact that its Formula One weekend drives all the prices up!

The F1 was a lot more fun than last time (2008) because the seats were SO MUCH BETTER! I enjoyed it a lot more. Once you figure out the details of HOW to get there on your own, it's crazy-easy and therefore we are even more ashamed that we resorted to buying a package last time!!

So today we are lounging in around lake Como, just finished a fabulous lunch in Bellagio along the lake front... mesmorising! The rest of the place is passable, really it's all shops. Boring. So after this it's back to Varenna :)

Tomorrow off to Genoa!

Ciao!